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How to : How to Surf

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Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Getting the Right Gear

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    Rent a soft surfboard your first time out. Don’t invest in your own surfboard if you’ve never tried surfing before. At most beaches good for surfing, rental spots will be available close to the beach, offering reasonably cheap rental options, by the hour or by the day.

    • You’ll usually be able to choose between fiberglass boards and soft surfboards, sometimes called “soft tops” or “foamies.” Soft surfboards are lightweight and much cheaper than epoxy or fiberglass boards. Soft boards are extremely buoyant and durable, making them a good choice for beginners.
    • Your size and weight will contribute to determining which type of board you should learn on.[1]
    • If you’re not sure what you want, talk to people at the surf shop. Be honest and tell them that you’re a first-timer and you want to know what you need to get started.

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    Try out a longboard while you’re first learning.[2]

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    Work your way up to a shortboard. Shortboards are less than seven feet long, with a sharp nose and multiple fins. It takes more practice to master a shortboard than longer types of surfboards, but it is considered the definitive high-performance board for the pros (though some professional surfers use longboards as well).

    • Fish boards are even shorter than shortboards and much wider. The fish board’s flatness and small profile make it ideal for riding small surf that other boards sometimes struggle with. It’s a great board for intermediate and advanced surfers.
    • Alternatively, The gun is another more advanced board. These boards are thin boards with very thin noses designed for experts surfing the very biggest waves. It can handle steep drops and high speeds with ease, but it’s hard to control if you’re a beginner.
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    Get a wetsuit. [4]
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    Get some surfboard wax.[6]
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    Get a leash for your board.[7]

Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Getting Started

  1. 1
    Practice on the ground first. Attach the leash to your back foot and to the tail of your board, then lie belly-down on the board so that your body is lined up straight down the middle of the board. From this position, practice your paddling motion with both arms to get a sense of the muscles that you will be working.

    • If you’re right-handed, your back foot will generally be your right foot. This is called “regular” stance. It’s called “goofy” stance when the leash is on your left foot. When in doubt, just do what feels most natural.
    • Don’t just jump into the water when you’re first learning to surf, or you’ll get frustrated quickly. Take a little bit of time to practice on the sand, or in the privacy of your backyard, before you’re on the beach in front of others.
  2. 2
    Practice getting up. “Taking off”(or “popping up”) on the wave and standing up on the board takes a bit of practice. While lying on the board, bring your hands up from paddling and place your hands below your chest, palms on the flat of the board while your fingers curl over the sides of the surfboard.

    • In one quick motion, push your body up with your arms and tuck your feet up and under you. Place one foot where your hands pushed up from and the other at least a shoulder’s width behind.
    • As you are beginning, you may find it easier to get up to your knees first and then bring up one foot at a time until you are in a standing position. It’s slower than the jump up, but it works effectively for someone not ready for the jump up.
    • Never grab the rails, or edges, of the board during your take off, unless you want to get a nice gash on your chin when your hands slip off your rail.
    • If you find your hands or feet slipping when you try to get up, you may need to rub more wax on your board.
    • You can practice jumping up without a surfboard present, so feel free to do it wherever you have a bit of space until you feel comfortable doing it.
  3. 3
    Learn to stand on the board properly. Once you’ve taken off, keep your knees bent, your arms loose and extended, your feet planted on the board, and your torso leaned forward to lower your center of gravity.

    • Depending on which foot comes naturally in front, you’ll be either a “regular foot” or “goofy foot.” Regular foot means that your left foot is in front, while goofy foot means your right foot leads.[8]
    • Beginners have a tendency to adopt a squatty stance when learning. Their feet are widely spread apart from bow to stern of their boards. This might feel comfortable, but it actually makes it harder to control. Balance is side-to-side, not front to back. You will notice that experienced surfers usually ride with their feet much closer together.
    • A proper stance includes keeping your eyes looking in the direction you are going.
  4. 4
    Paddle around and get comfortable in the water.[9]
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    5
    Talk to more experienced surfers or instructors if you can. The best way to practice and prepare for hitting the beach is with another person nearby who knows more about surfing than you do, and can provide feedback and advice.

    • If you have a friend who surfs, ask for help. Friends don’t usually charge and you can practice privacy of your own home rather than on the beach in front of others.
    • Pay an instructor. This is the most reliable way to learn the basics of surfing in a clear, methodical way. For a fee, he or she will teach you all you need to know and give you pointers that will help you get out into the surf and having fun quickly.
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    Find a spot. [12]
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    Learn basic surfing etiquette before you head out.[13]
Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Catching a Wave

  1. 1
    Identify a target spot. You want to be waist deep in the white water, where the waves have already broken. This is the best place to start when you’re a beginner. Don’t plan on paddling too far out where more advanced surfers might be waiting for a set, but make sure you are in deep enough water to keep from hitting your head if should you fall off your board.

    • Pick a reference point. Choose a landmark on the shore and glance at it periodically as you move into deeper water. This will help you gauge your distance from shore, and can help to reveal any hidden currents that might be moving you.
  2. 2
    Paddle to your spot. When you’re ready to go out into the waves, walk your board out until you’re about waist- or chest-deep, then lie on the board and paddle straight into the waves.

    • Paddle straight when you are paddling out. If you hit the waves at a glancing angle, you will lose the forward momentum you’ve built up. Stay perpendicular to the oncoming waves and “cut” through them instead.
    • As you “cut” through a wave, it helps to do a push-up with your upper body as you go over or through the wave.[15]
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    3
    Turn your board and wait for an appropriate wave.[16]
  4. 4
    Start paddling and try to catch the wave. When you have a good sense of the speed and motion of the wave and you feel that sense that you’ve caught its momentum, take off using the techniques you’ve been practicing.[17]
  5. 5
    Ride the wave.[19]
  6. 6
    Try turning when you’re ready. As you become accustomed to the feeling of surfing, you will probably want to try angling your board across a wave. Lean into your turn with your body, keeping your center of gravity on the board. Use your body to gently dip one rail of your board into the face of the wave. This creates friction/drag that will turn the board. Once you catch the right angle, maintain balance and ride down the curl of the wave.

    • Pick the direction you want to ride across the wave (left or right) early. If the wave is low enough, begin paddling in that direction before the wave hits. For larger waves, wait until you are getting pulled up onto the wave.
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    7
    Be prepared to wipe out. If you feel yourself falling, or if the wave dies down, jump away from the board towards the ocean and away from your momentum.[20]
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    8
    Use the channels to get out of the way. After you wipeout or bail, you need to get out of the way so that other people can surf. Don’t paddle up the middle of the break where other surfers will be coming. Instead, paddle off to the side first, to keep the wave zone clear.
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    9
    Keep trying. You’ll probably slide or fall off the first few times, but don’t be deterred. Some people can learn in an afternoon, while others take a few weeks to get the hang of things. Keep trying and you’ll eventually make it.

    • Avoid getting to your knees and stopping. If you’re going to commit, commit and stand up. Going to your knees is like saddling the horse but not riding it.
    • Enjoy the ocean and have fun.

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Tips

  • Always surf with a buddy. It’s safer, and if you wipe out, you can get help if you need it. A buddy can also help push you into a wave![22]
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  • Sit-ups and pushups are a great way to tone up for surfing. Most actions in surfing depend primarily on the muscle groups that these exercises improve.

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  • Don’t be afraid to ask for help! Many advanced surfers are glad to help beginners as long as they’re polite.

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Warnings

  • Avoid riptides. Riptides look like sand at the top of the water, and can appear brown or reddish. They usually form near rock jetties, reefs, and piers.

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  • Practice learning in a beginner spot, away from more experienced surfers.

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  • Stay close to the beach. In surfing, that is suitable for beginners until you are thoroughly experienced with beginner waves.

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  • If you get caught in a riptide, swim parallel to shore until you find the end of it, rather than trying to fight your way straight through it. If you can’t swim parallel, tread water or float and yell for help.

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  • Don’t surf alone, especially as a beginner. Even a friend on the shore is safer than going solo.[23]
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