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How to : How to Grow Roses from Seed

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Part 1
Part 1 of 3:

Harvesting Seeds

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    Allow rose hips to develop by leaving dead flowers on the plant. The flowers are typically pollinated by insects, or pollinate themselves in some varieties, so there is no need to pollinate by hand unless you are breeding specific plants together. Leave the flowers on the rose plant without cutting them. After they wither, small fruits known as rose hips will develop in their place.

    • Note: The seeds you harvest may grow into a plant with different characteristics. This can occur if you are harvesting from a hybrid rose variety, or if the rose is pollinated with pollen from a different, nearby rose variety.

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    2
    Remove the rose hips once ripe. The rose hips will start out small and green, then change color as they grow until they are completely red, orange, brown, or purple. You may pick them at this point, or wait until they are just beginning to dry out and wrinkle. Don’t wait until they are fully dry and brown, as the seeds inside may have died by this point.

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    Cut the hips open and remove the seeds. Cut open the rose hips with a knife, revealing the seeds inside. Pull these out with the knife tip or any other utensil.

    • The number of seeds in each rose hip varies greatly between rose varieties. There may only be a few per rose hip, or several dozen.
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    4
    Wipe the pulp off the seeds. If the pulp is left on the seeds, it may prevent them from germinating. One quick way to remove the pulp is to place the seeds in a sieve or mesh, running water through it as you rub the seeds against the sides.

Part 2
Part 2 of 3:

Germinating Seeds

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    1
    Soak the seeds in diluted hydrogen peroxide (optional). A mixture of water and hydrogen peroxide may reduce the growth of mold on the seeds. Stir 1.5 teaspoons (7 mL) of 3% hydrogen peroxide into 1 cup (240 mL) water.[1]
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    2
    Place the seeds in a damp material. Rose seeds typically won’t sprout unless they are kept in cold, wet conditions, mimicking a winter environment. Place the seeds between two layers of lightly dampened paper towels, or in a container of dampened salt-free river sand, peat moss, or vermiculite.

    • This is the first step in a process called stratification. If you are using store-bought seeds and the label says they are already stratified, skip to the planting seeds section below.[2]
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    3
    Leave the seeds in the fridge for several weeks. Put the seeds and moist material in a plastic bag or seedling tray in a plastic bag or seedling trays, and keep them in a cold area of a refrigerator, such as an otherwise empty crisper drawer.

    • Do not keep them in the same area of the refrigerator as fruit or vegetables, which can release chemicals that prevent the seeds from developing.
    • Keep the seed medium slightly damp. Add a few drops of water to each paper towel whenever they begin to dry out.
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    4
    Remove the seeds from the fridge. Try to do this around the time that the seeds would normally start to germinate, such as in early spring. Make sure that the environment outside of the fridge is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit.[3]
Part 3
Part 3 of 3:

Planting Seeds

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    1
    Fill a container with sterile seed starting mix. Small seedling starting trays make it easy to care for many seeds at once. Alternatively, use plastic drinking cups with a hole punched in the bottom, to make root growth easier to view.

    • Regular soil is not recommended, as it may not drain well enough and cause the seedlings to rot.
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    2
    Plant the seeds. Some store-bought seeds can be planted immediately. If you germinated your own seeds as described above, plant them as soon as they begin to sprout. Plant with the sprout pointed downward, as this is the root. Lightly cover them with soil, about 1/4 inch (6 mm) deep. Space seeds at least 2 inches (5 cm) apart to minimize competition.[5]
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    3
    Keep the seedlings in warm, moist soil. Keep the soil damp, but not soggy. A temperature between 60 and 70ºF (16–21ºC) is ideal for most rose varieties.[7]
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    4
    Learn when it’s safe to transplant seedlings. The first two leaves visible are usually “cotyledons,” or seed leaves. Once the seedling grows several “true leaves,” with a more typical rose leaf appearance, it is more likely to survive transplanting. It is also easier on plants if they are transplanted to a larger pot for a year or two, and then transplanted outside.[8]
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    5
    Care for your roses. Once the transplanted seedling is looking healthy again, you can start watering it as normal. Fertilizing a few times during the warm growing season may help your plant grow and bloom if you follow the fertilizer instructions, but keep in mind that some varieties of rose will not bloom at all during their first year of life.

Video

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Things You’ll Need

  • Water

  • Paper towels (or see instructions for alternatives)

  • Rose hips or rose seeds

  • 3% hydrogen peroxide (optional)

  • Seed starting mix

Tips

  • Ask about varieties of roses available at a gardening store to find out which are best suited for your climate and garden.

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Warnings

  • Be skeptical if advised to float the seeds in water to test whether they can be planted. While this may work for some other plants, rose seeds often float whether or not they are defective.

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